I was sitting by our knitting stall in the East End of London on Sunday, happily knitting away with the big needles and plastic bags when who should approach with an enquiring mind but Alexander McQueen.
Now, I don't know if he's a knitter (whaddya think?) but I remained chatty and aloof - I was only knitting a large plastic bag sheet to hang at the back of the stall for a bit of colour, but if he's got knitted carrier bags in his next collection I'm gonna sue!
I recently received in the mail Vogue Knittings Stitchionary Volume 2- Cables. I thought it was going to be another lame book. Silly me forgot that Vogue is fabulous all around. I suggest everyone who loves cables and fun moving patterns pick this book up immediately.....maintenant, as we say in Quebec.....:)
I encountered a woman at a flea market on Saturday offering baskets of recycled yarn, which she confirmed was obtained by ripping out knitted garments. She was purposefully vague about where she buys them, but told me she has learned which brands are most likely to yield long continuous lengths of yarn. It was all quite clean and neatly wound with a mechanical winder, though she would not make any representation as to the fiber content, weight or yardage. WYSIWYG. The yarns I bought immediately melted when subjected to the flame test at home, and I imagine that mos
I'm considering making a vest (waistcoat) from a "vintage" (30s? 40s?) English pattern which calls for 11 oz. of worsted-weight yarn. I prefer working with finer yarn and needles and have no problem with modifying the pattern to suit my smaller gauge, but I'm not sure how much wool to buy. Can I substitute 11 oz. (300 g.) of fingering-weight yarn for 11 oz. of worsted and have about the right amount? I know I'm not likely to find if for 7 d. per ounce as mentioned in the pattern, so I'd like to have some idea of how much to buy.
I started making the thong. I have gotten to the front pouch. I must admit that part of the intstructions are a little confusing but I may have figured it out. We'll see though when the pouch is done. No, I will not model it here, not with my dunlap. LOL.
I had to draft out the shape of the monogram relief myself on graph paper, but it really wasn't too difficult. Thankfully, the letter 'M', which is the first letter of my boyfriend's last name, was pretty easy as well as symmetrical, which is important because the coasters are meant to be reversible. The 'M' is in reverse-stockinette on the right side and stockinette on the wrong side.
Help Please! I am trying to find a simple beret pattern done in finger wieght yarn. having no luck I made one and it looks like a homeless person I will be that homeless person!! on the street, so if you see me say hi and nice hat. please if any one has a good pattern the beret is for a friend going through chemo. ( now you can see why I wouldn't give him the homeless hat, although I have no pride, he does) Thanks
I've been watching and waiting for someone to answer Martin's call to create and model swimwear. Well, I needed a new bathing suit and so I decided it was time for me to venture into knitting apparel. I have to say that the results are positive.
Ok guys... I've got a problem that, frankly, I don't know what to do to fix. Whenever I go from a knit stitch to a purl stitch, that knit stitch always seems to be loose and misshapen and there tends to be a gap between the two. Now, the gap isn't a huge issue for me because the "rib" (so to speak) generally hides that. But the loose knit stitches are the bane of my knitting at the moment. I've tried tightening them 10 ways from Sunday and I still can't get them even. I don't know if it's something weird like the angle I purl at, but it's always when I go from knits to purls. Here's a picture. Any ideas?