My circular needles are getting out of hand. I have the Boye's interchangables, (awesome things) but I still have Addis and Susan Bates, and keeping them bound together with a twist tie in a box with other knitting paraphernalia is neither charming nor neat. How does everyone store their circulars?
I have not written much, but my scarf is coming along . It just takes me a long time to knit, unless is a cable sweater, which I love. I am looking forward to the new year and have in my goals make some socks, which Ihave never done before. I may even try ti knit a cap with the foru needles first before I do the socks. I got mysel a nice holiday present, a set of Boye's circular needle set with interchangeable needles. What can I say I am a good bad boy.
I am in need of some guidance with socks. I've been an avid sock knitter for two years and am tired of having to patch the holes where the heel meets the instep. I have this problem whether doing a short row or heel flap-type heel. Any suggestions?
this is the first pair of mittens i've made. i made these mittens for myself b/c i have REALLY long fingers and no mittens ever fit me. i had to alter the pattern a bit, but it didn't give me any problems. i'm looking forward to making another pair similar to these, it was loads of fun and kept me entertained for hours at a time.
I'm knitting the sleeves to my sweater. Frankly they have been driving me a bit crazy since this is the 1st sweater I'm knitting that is not in the round. I've ripped more times than I care to admit.
The pattern calls for a M1 increase at each edge starting on the RS then every following 7th row. The "Following 7th row" instruction is a bit vague to me. Which option is correct?
Row 0 (RS): Increase
* row 1 (WS): P
row 2 (RS): K
row 3 (WS): P
row 4 (RS): K
row 5 (WS): P
row 6 (RS): K
row 7 (WS): Increase *
Row 1 (RS): Increase
* row 2 (WS): P
row 3 (RS): K
Technique should be secondary to the final product. What is your conception? What do you, as knitter, want to produce? If I am working on a school sweater for a young, athletic child -- lots of running, playing, and moving involved -- I use durable yarn, lots of acrylic, machine washable and machine dryable, and a design that allows for movement. Usually a knit-in-the-round design, maybe using cut armholes or cut front for a cardigan. For a young woman's formal wear, I might use a tailored design, done flat on two needles and with seams to retain the shape of the sweater. The yarn is usually a fine yarn in luxurious fiber, perhaps cashmere, alpaca, or mohair. It all depends on the use intended for the end product.
Hi Guys & ladylurkers
Been reading the entries on inspiration vs imitation and thinking that most of us seem to agree that it's OK to draw from a pool of common knitting knowledge for basic designs, ideas on decoration, and techniques for accomplishing our knitting. But just when does a design become uniquely one's own? Sometimes hard to say.
While looking at Ulf's Scandinavian sweater, I had the thought that his work was a unique production, indeed. Each of the components of his design had been used before. But the final combination was something that had not been seen before. And a very impressive sweater!