## Lets try this again.

After a day of crocheting me some granny squares... I have decided to try my origanal beanie again... I have worked about a quarter of it already and now I am going to ask for suggestions...

I casted on 92... Any suggestions on how to decrease... the pattern says to:

k1 *k2t knit 11*
k
k1 *k2t knit 10*
k
k1 *k2t knit 9*

and so on till I get to about 15 stitches total...

Does this seem right and if not, any other ideas, or any ideas in general?

### the easiest way i've found

the easiest way i've found to decrease is to first cast on an even number (something divisible by 10 actually) and knit in whatever style you want to keep it from rolling.

knit knit knit knit knit knit knit knit till you feel you can start decreasing.

then *k8 k2tog*
knit
*k7 k2tog*
knit
*k6 k2tog*
knit
*k5 k2tog*
knit
*k4 k2tog*
knit
*k3 k2tog*
knit
*k2 k2tog*
knit
*k1 k2tog*
knit
*k2tog*
break yarn, draw through remaining loops, thead yarn through hole, pull together inside hat (so as to NOT create a point that sticks off your head)
weave in any ends.

this creates a subtle spiral..sometimes not too subtle....unless you k 2 rounds in between your decrease rounds.

### I agree with MMario. The K1

I agree with MMario. The K1 at the beginning of the round doesn't make a lot of sense. It sounds to me like the pattern was written for a ribbing with an even number of stitches, and then when the stitch count wasn't evenly divisible for the decrease, the K1 was just tacked on to the beginning of each row. I'd decrease to 91 stitches before you start your decreases and then ignore that K1 in the directions.

### If I added right, with k1

If I added right, with k1 *k2 tog, k11*, you will repeat this 7 times

[1 + 7(2 + 11)] = 92

this will create a radial decrease that spirals inward.

Is this knit flat or in the round? I would assume the pattern was written for flat because K1 to start the row sounds like it is the extra seam allowance stitch for sewing together, but the k rows between the decreases sound like in the round.

or is it knit flat in garter stitch (knit all rows), in which case the K rows between the decreases is correct.

Please remember: I have a collection of needles and a history of violence

### Yeah, this is knitted in the

Yeah, this is knitted in the round.

### a possibility - do the

a possibility - do the instruction possibly say k1,*k2tog, k11;

in that case the knit one is done ONLY at the beginning of the row and your repeat is k2tog,k11....

MMario - I don't live in the 21st Century - but I sometimes play a character who does.

### A few things I don't

A few things I don't understand. I don't know why they ask you to knit l and then k2tog then k ll. That adds up to 14 stitches and l4 does not divide into 92 evenly. A standard rate of decrease would be to get rid of one stitch somewhere along the way which would leave 9l. If you do the decreases k2tog k11 you would be decreasing 7 stitches in that row. This decrease uses 13 stitches and 13 does divide into 91 evenly. The next decrease row would be k2tog kl0 and then k2tog k 9 and so on. It is usual to leave out the plain row when you reach 49 stitches to shape the top of the hat. Therefore, you would continue decreasing with the same rate until you have 7 left. I usually knit 2 tog 3 times and then I am left with 4 stitches through which I can draw the wool.

### That decrease rate sounds

That decrease rate sounds okay........do the directions also say to either 1) knit another row between decreases if using a circular neeedle; or 2) purl a row between decreases if using straight needles. Also you may want to make sure that you have the body of the beanie long enough before you begin to decrease....somewhere between 6 and 8 inches perhaps.

It will all work out okay! Show us a picture when completed!

Rex