Friends, I need help

phew's picture

Friends, I am in the process of knitting a neckdown pullover sweater for the first time. It is with circular needles and I have come to the point of having to cast on another skein of yarn. In the past I have used the braided method of adding new yarn. I am a little leery of using this method for a sweater. I also am not sure about adding a new skein the traditional way and later sewing in the "tails" as the entire sweater as you all know is in stockinette stitch and I worry that the sewn in yarn will be quite visible on the finished project. I know a lot of you guys have knitted neckdown pullovers and would appreciate any advise you might give me regarding my concern. John

Comments

phew's picture

Thanks guys for all the help.

Thanks guys for all the help. I have printed out all for future reference. What a great site this is. John

Crafty Andy's picture

If it is wool superwash or

If it is wool superwash or not I fuse the yarn, if for whatever reasons the yarn does not or can not be fused I use the so called Russian join. I don't like double strands, and don't use them.

SAPBrown's picture

I've used the knit a few with

I've used the knit a few with both stands together Mark(ilhiker) mentions. I found the double stranded section did show, if you knew where to look.
To make it less obvious to me (I know where to look for the join); I started alternating which strand (old or new) works the next stitch. I do this for 10+ stitches. Not sure of the structural integrity, no double yarn stitches marking the join.

TechKnitter's blog, Mark (NewYorBuilt) suggests is wonderful. It is well organized and easily understood. I've tried several techniques from there and been pleased with all.

SAPBrown's picture

omit 2x post

omit 2x post

ronhuber's picture

If you are knitting with wool

If you are knitting with wool (not washable wool) you can do a spit join. That involves separating the plies on each end of the yarn you wish to join and tearing off about 3 inches of one ply on both ends. Then wet them and overlap them and rub them between your palms. They will felt and you just carry on. If not able to do the spit join, hold old and new together and knit a stitch ( Elizabeth Zimmermann always knitted just one stitch but I do about 3 - 5). The ends can be skimmed through the back of the knitting and become invisible.

New York Built's picture

John, I fear this may be TMI

John, I fear this may be TMI (too much information!) time here in Men Who Knit Land. However, should you feel the need, here are the sample headings at Techknitter's blog for your question. To get to the index where these gems are stored, go here.

ENDS, worked in as you go along
.Part 1--the Russian join (June 25, 2007)
.Part 2--the back join (June 28, 2007)
.Part 2a--BACK to the back join (July 1, 2007)
.Part 3--the overcast method (July 8, 2007)
.Part 4--overview and summary (July 11, 2007)
.Ends worked in as you go along: same color or changing color (April 19, 2010)
.Jogless stripes in ribbing, with a trick to work your ends in as-you-go (March 3, 2008)
.Joining circular knitting--the 3-in-1 TECHjoin (works in the "tail" as-you-go) (January 26, 2007)

ENDS, worked in after the knitting is finished
.Knit picker: skimming in ends with a knit-picker (October 26, 2012)
.Sewing needle, part 1--the skimming-in method (July 14, 2007)
.Sewing needle, part 2--weaving ends into knit fabric (July 16, 2007)
.Sewing needle, part 3--weaving ends into ribbing (July 17, 2007)
.Sewing needle: working in too-short ends--a classic dressmaker's tip, handy for knitters (September 27, 2009)

A lot of good info here with detailed drawings.

CLABBERS's picture

Hi John, I knitted a

Hi John,
I knitted a top-down raglan sweater with yarn that had many, many, many yarn breaks because of poor quality. I had 18 joins in one sweater! What I did was always start a new length of yarn under the arm. I figured if it was going to show, that would be the place because most people wouldn't notice it there. I just did it the traditional way, but instead of just starting a new length of yarn and abandoning the old, I held the two yarns together for about 5 stitches, then dropped the old and kept going. That way, I could go back and tidy things up later and to my surprise, the joins were invisible. This was on my very first sweater, so I was very pleased.

Hope this helps!

Mark