I like to teach. One of the best ways for me to learn something is to teach it; otherwise, I find it difficult to buckle down and do the homework. So when a LYS owner asked if I'd be interested in teaching "knit to fit," I decided it is time I tackle the elusive concept of fitting a sweater. So, of course, before I can tackle fitting a women's sweater, I should probably figure out how to have a sweater that fits me really well.
There are some wonderful resources available, including some Craftsy courses (I bought into Amy Herzog's class), as well as a book I have by Ysolda Teague. The information is great, and the "how to" makes a lot of sense: you take a series of measurements, and use them to custom-fit a garment that fits your specific shape. Great. But there are certain shapes and lines that are generally considered "flattering," and these resources don't really touch on men's bodies at all. For women, curvy and balanced is considered a good thing. What about for men? What kind of broad strokes are helpful in guiding the look I should aim for? The ideal I always think of is the triangular V-shape. The fashion magazines talk about different builds, but the models are still proportional for their build.
I have used sweater recipes and try-on-as-you-go methods, and knit a few sweater vests, but I have yet to make something that I feel really good in. I'm out of shape, but not heavy-set. Sweater vests seem to emphasize my small shoulders and give me man boob and a belly. And the couple full sweaters I've made have way too much fabric in the back. In the resources I'm using, the answer for the fabric in the back would be to use fewer stitches to follow the waist, creating a curvy hourglass effect. Shaping at the back would create a curvy look. But I'm not sure how to work it for a masculine look. I'm thinking some shaping should exist, but draw the sweater in toward the waist, without expanding for hips - the upside-down triangle, or V-shape. Right? And using a stiffer fabric would help with a better sense of bulk than something slinky, minimizing man-boob and belly. Am I on the right track? Does anyone have any pointers from the mysterious world of sewing that might help?