Hey dudes! I got slammed with some crochet deadlines since starting this sweater in January but happily my schedule loosened up enough for me to work on it once again. This is the progress so far:
And here is a detailed photo. The cabling and texture show up in real life very well, but just got lost in that above photo:
BUYING YARN - Purchase all yarn from the same dye lot. Check yarn label for washing instructions. Stay within two sizes of the recommended needle size. When substituting yarns, select a yarn close to the original in weight and type. KNITTING WITH COTTON - Cotton keeps us cool in summer and warm in winter. It is soft and comfortable. Cotton comes as crepe, boucle, slubbed, ribbon, and chenille to name some of the varieties. Cotton does not have the same elasticity as other yarns, nor does the yarn slide as easily on the needles. Always knit ribbing on smaller needles. Sew seams firmly. Generally, it is best to hand wash cotton knits. Do not dry in the sun, since sunlight discolours and weakens the fibres.
BUYING YARN - Purchase all yarn from the same dye lot. Check yarn label for washing instructions. Stay within two sizes of the recommended needle size. When substituting yarns, select a yarn close to the original in weight and type.
KNITTING WITH COTTON - Cotton keeps us cool in summer and warm in winter. It is soft and comfortable. Cotton comes as crepe, boucle, slubbed, ribbon, and chenille to name some of the varieties. Cotton does not have the same elasticity as other yarns, nor does the yarn slide as easily on the needles. Always knit ribbing on smaller needles. Sew seams firmly. Generally, it is best to hand wash cotton knits. Do not dry in the sun, since sunlight discolours and weakens the fibres.
Lets talk fibers and projects! Answer us this one....Do you prefer to work with firbers that are chunky and bulky, thus creating a "faster to complete" project, or do you like thinner more fine fiber that creates a "longer to complete" project? I know we all ,kind of, like both....but which do you find yourself buying more of? I find I choose thinner fibers mainly because of the finished look....it seems so much more elegant too me.....now that being said....I can't imagine working with lace or anything....I would pull my hair out (if I had any)!!!! Let us know.....and on a personal note....Thank you, too the lurkers who stepped up and said "Hi" after our #13 question.
The swap/trade forum seems pretty underused, so I figured I'd give it a bump.
I'm looking for up to ten skeins of Naturally Tussock 10 ply in color #165. It's a navy blue with the plyester wrap thread. I bought five at one of my LYS on a 50% clearance sale, and I'm going to need more of it, I just can't find it in any of the other stores in my area, and the few places I've found online that have than specific color in stock are charging way more than I want to pay unless I absolutely have to. Same goes for having one of the stores order it for me. But I figured if anyone finds this (in that color) at their LYS, especially if it's at a clearance price (I paid $3.50 a skein!), please let me know and I can send you money (Paypal, check. MO, whatever) to cover the cost of the yarn and some postage.
Well I am just starting on knitting a london beanie from a pattern I found online. I was all excited with the needlemaster circ set I got until i realized if I knit on the circs I need to switch to dpns to finish the hat off...my question since ive never used circs, just learning now, and def not used dpns, is there a way to avoid the dpns? or no. and if not,can someone point me to a good guide for how to knit with dpns.?
I recently completed this childrens sweater for my nephew Jaxon. It worked great. I'm not sure if his mother will ever put it on him but I'm certain the sizing was good - if not a little big for him right now.
So, I thought, now that I've tackled a small sweater in this lopi pattern then I'll do a nice big one for me. The cardigan in this picture.
I did the cuff at the bottom and the pattern, it worked great, except it's made for a munchkin.
I wonder if anyone else has had this problem. I've made two sweaters now and both turned out well - this one I really want for me, as I've knit the others for my partner and my nephew. How frustrating! Ommmm...
This is a pic Of a sweater that I made for my little Italian.
I am looking for information about what MWK members do when finishing a knitted garment Do people block with pins and steam or only steam the loose pieces? Which garments would be blocked/steamed and which would not? How does one make the determination? Do people block to straighten the pieces so they match or to plump-up the stitches to even out the surface of the fabric and even-out the stitches? The literature gives differing opinions on the need for blocking so I'm curious to know the experiences and opinions of others in our little knitting communit
The sock yarn i bought today is called Sockotta, its from plymouth their italian collection. its 45%cotton, 40% superwash wool and 15% nylon. It looks like colored kite string not yarn. Ive hear comments of socks knitting up quickly. Right, its going to take weeks to make a pair of socks. I hope there is enough. I got 414 yards. looks to be enough. the swatch looks great, the colors are wonderful. I hope the socks look as good.
I learned to cast on using the long tail method (needle through loop on left thumb, wrap yarn, lift loop over needle), however I've never cared for the edge it creates on a ribbed piece such as a hat, sock or cuff. I've spent some time trying to learn other methods of casting on but haven't found any good discussion of when to choose which one, and none of my swatches seems clearly superior to the others. Which method do you prefer for a visible ribbed edge that is stretchy but not too loose and has a nice appearance and feel. Or is the secret not in the method of casting on but rather in using a different size needle or in working the first round a certain way?