I got my fall program catalog for the Kripalu Center for Yoga and Health and lo and behold, the next weekend program with Karen Allen is in November.
Looks like it should be a fun experience. A weekend, or even a day at Kripalu always is regardless of what program you choose to do. I'm not sure I'll be able to go to this yet, although I would REALLY like to. But I wanted to put the info out for everyone else too.
For most of the year I live in Mexico. I do, however, have a place in Canada and that is where my copy of "Knitting Workshop" by EZ is and I am not. Here in Mexico I have the pattern for the Tomten in both "Knitting Without Tears" and "Opinionated Knitter" . They give directions for the jacket but only for one size. In Workshop she gives directions for making the jacket in any size as long as it is a multiple of 8. The only thing I can't remember is how many stitches do I increase at the centre back of the hood. If you have a co
OK. I'm getting much better at this knitting thing and I'm getting pickier about leaving mistakes behind. This being the case, I've gotten pretty good at knitting backwards (or TINKing, as I've heard it called). Unfortunately, the stitches occasionally get twisted in doing so.
I've learned that I can fix a twisted knit stitch by knitting into the back of the stitch, but when a purl stitch is twisted, the only thing I know to do to fix it is to slip the stitch and slip it back untwisted. This is fine when there's only a few stitches, but is a real pain when there's a whole row of twisted stitches to fix. Is there a similar technique to fix a twisted purl stitch in one fell swoop?
I was telling a lady at work who is an avid crocheter about my woes of frogging my current project 4 (or is it 5 now) times. She said that the term frogging came about because your "ripit ripit". Thought that was cute but she also said that she thought kniiters used the term "TINKing" which is knit backwards! Most of you long time knitters probably already knew that but I had never heard it.
I recently made a trip to the Goodwill in search of sweaters to recycle and it was an excellent day for hunting. I purchased three sweaters and a vest, all 100% 2-ply cashmere. I knew I was taking a chance on the vest because it had buttons down the front, so if anything, the back would be the only useable portion. But the yarn was so loosely spun that I couldn't unravel it without the yarn constantly breaking. I gave up. It was really soft, so I was a bit disappointed, but it cost next to nothing and I ended up with 6 vintage mother of pearl button, so it wasn't a total loss.
I was given a very generous gift certificate to the fabulous store Barneys here in Manhattan. I had no idea what to buy & didn't want to just buy something for the sake of it. I looked around and found several nice shirts, Comme de Garcon, Burberry, Gucci, real high end stuff. anyway my b/f spotted a black cashmere jumper that was in my price range & what do you know it was the design from Knit:1, men's issue fall/winter 2005. Designed by John who works @ The Point! It's the one with the dropped stitches. What a coincidence. It was made by a company I've never heard of Lutz & Patmos. You can see it on their website if you're interested.
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If you see something that's out of line, please send me an email at email@example.com with the username and/or URL to the offensive content and I'll take care of it.
Thanks to those of you who have been reporting incidents of this nature. Let's keep a clean site, ladies and gentlemen.
I'm still plugging away at the Leo's sweater pattern from knitty.com. It's taken me quite some time to get as far as I have. Not only am I a slow knitter, and don't have time to knit every day, but I have been taking breaks from it to work on smaller things too. I'm also taking my time with this project because it's not for me and I want it to be as close to perfect as possible.
Next Row [WS]: Work across 46[51, 52, 59, 60] sts, BO center 19[19, 21, 21, 23] sts, work rem 46[51, 52, 59, 60] sts
Next Row [RS]: Work in patt as set to last 5 sts, k2 tog, k3.
Next Row [WS]: P3, p2tog, work in patt as set to end.
Work these 2 rows 9[10, 10, 11, 11] times more, then work first row 0[0, 0, 1, 1] time more. 26[29, 30, 34, 45] sts
Work even until piece measures 9[9.5, 10, 10.5, 11] inches from beg of armhole shaping, ending with a WS row.
Next row [RS]: BO 6[7, 7, 8, 8] sts, work to end.
Next and all foll WS rows: Work even in patt as set.
Next row [RS]: BO 6[7, 7, 8, 9] sts, work to end.
Next row [RS]: BO 7[7, 8, 9, 9] sts, work to end.
Next row [RS]: BO rem 7[8, 8, 9, 9] sts in patt.
Reattach yarn and work left neck and shoulder to match right neck and shoulder, reversing all shaping, using k2tog tbl and p2tog tbl decs in place of k2tog and p2tog.
I've been bothered by the bright silver finish on the Addi turbo needles...it's blinding to my old eyes... searched and found a product that turns them charcoal grey! ...it's a liquid called "Blacken it" used to antique model trains and tracks. Got it from Micromark.. www.micromark.com. I just cleaned the turbo needles to get rid of finger grease...and dipped them in the bottle...then rinsed. ...they're now a warm charcoal grey colour. it doesn't rub off or stain... Bill
Wow! ...looking at that bar chart is going to become annoying for the next few days... LOL