I'm considering making a vest (waistcoat) from a "vintage" (30s? 40s?) English pattern which calls for 11 oz. of worsted-weight yarn. I prefer working with finer yarn and needles and have no problem with modifying the pattern to suit my smaller gauge, but I'm not sure how much wool to buy. Can I substitute 11 oz. (300 g.) of fingering-weight yarn for 11 oz. of worsted and have about the right amount? I know I'm not likely to find if for 7 d. per ounce as mentioned in the pattern, so I'd like to have some idea of how much to buy.
Help Please! I am trying to find a simple beret pattern done in finger wieght yarn. having no luck I made one and it looks like a homeless person I will be that homeless person!! on the street, so if you see me say hi and nice hat. please if any one has a good pattern the beret is for a friend going through chemo. ( now you can see why I wouldn't give him the homeless hat, although I have no pride, he does) Thanks
Ok guys... I've got a problem that, frankly, I don't know what to do to fix. Whenever I go from a knit stitch to a purl stitch, that knit stitch always seems to be loose and misshapen and there tends to be a gap between the two. Now, the gap isn't a huge issue for me because the "rib" (so to speak) generally hides that. But the loose knit stitches are the bane of my knitting at the moment. I've tried tightening them 10 ways from Sunday and I still can't get them even. I don't know if it's something weird like the angle I purl at, but it's always when I go from knits to purls. Here's a picture. Any ideas?
Well I had a lot of fun learning from Nicky Epstien @ The Point, NYC this evening. She showed us several ways to make knitted flowers from her current book. Yeah, I was the only guy there! Hey ho I'm used to that. She inspired me to use some of her techniques in my knitting.
Check out these great new containers from Knit Foundry. Nancy, from Knit Foundry, was quick to respond to e-mail inquiries and was a pleasure to deal with.
I bought one in each size and I love them. I got the yellow and the raspberry. I was hoping the yellow would actually be brighter than it looks on my monitor and it is. The cap really does stay put, but comes off easily when you want it to, and the container is rigid and tough so I can toss it into my backback and not worry about it.
They'll make great stocking stuffers this year, too!
I recently bought a set of Lantern Moon double-pointed needles (size 1, ebony) and posted about them here. I had recently broken one of the needles and wanted to give another update.
After I broke the needle, I e-mailed Lantern Moon via their website to see if they offered replacements. I'm not sure what happened to my e-mail, because I never got a reply. BUT, I finally called them last week and they were fantastic! Not only are they sending me a replacement for the broken needle AND the needle with a cracked tip, they are throwing in an extra needle so I have a spare! Three needles, no questions asked. That's fantastic! Actually, they did ask a few questions: What was I knitting? What yarn was I using? Pleasant conversational questions. Great service.
Does anyone have Jo Sharp's Contemporary Knitting 1? There is a Fisherman Style Sweater pattern that I am desperate to get hold of. If anyone can help, I'd really appreciate it. For those who might be interested her website is http://www.josharp.com.au/index.html.
Here's a question for all the sock knitters here: when making top-down socks, what can be done with the cast-on tail at the cuff? I knit the tail in for the first several stitches of the cuff, so it's secure, but I haven't had great luck hiding the rest of it.
Usually (not at the cuff), I weave in the end (as detailed here) then leave an inch or so discretely hanging inside the work. It eventually felts into place and everything is fine. However, at the top of the sock, I don't want an inch hanging out, and if I clip the end any shorter, it pops to the outside. Any suggestions?
I make handcrafted, high quality hardwood knitting needles. I am an experienced woodworker, and have combined my interest in knitting to my interest in woodworking. Pictures of many of the needles I have made can be seen at www.geocities.com/outerbanksneedles . Most of the needles pictured there now have been sold. Others are frequently made. Check the site for updates, or requests to be emailed pics of new needles, before they are put on the website. Collectors often get them before the pic makes it to the website.
I have been knitting for a little over a year now and am working my second sweater and have ventured into mittens, socks, and a few other projects. I never feel comfortable joining yarn. I currently use the Russian join method of adding yarn found on 'Knittinghelp.com" but have never felt totally comfortable. What is the best method of adding on?
Thanks for any advice.