Help In My Quest...

New York Built's picture

for the perfect shoulder in a sweater.

Does anyone know more about the current trend in Italian knitwear using a band of ribbing across the shoulders...from tip of shoulder across behind the neck to the other tip of shoulder? Spotted this in several recent samples here in New York City, and the result creates a great fit!

Also, in the Men's Vogue back in '02 I believe was a pattern for a sweater where the shoulder seam was angled back, off the shoulder. Think of a raglan seam at the back, but none in front. Also seeing this more this year.

Any leads?

Comments

HuskerChub's picture

Do you have an example of

Do you have an example of the first shoulder you are asking about? I'm wondering if it's not just a simple boat neck with a shaped front? Or is the front also straight across, which would be a boat neck. As for the second shoulder. I have found my materials and have an answer. You can find the shoulder often in high end fine gauge machine knit sweaters not too often in hand knits, which I think is an injustice as it is a very comfortable shoulder and fits very nicely. On the front knit a "normal" straight shoulder, i.e. knit to the shoulder seem and bind it off, or onto waste or holders with no shaping. On the back make the shaping twice the depth as for a normal shaping, i.e. if you would normally have a 1.5" shoulder slant, make the slant on the back 3". Once the seaming is done, the shoulder pulls over to the back leaving a smooth piece of fabric over the shoulder and appearing much like a back only raglan.

New York Built's picture

Thanks, Shawn, for your

Thanks, Shawn, for your thoughtful reply.

The first sweaters I speak of are quite ordinary...however, what was done was to knit a band across the complete top of the shoulders, about a half-inch wide, but wider by a half inch at the top of the arms. Think of the curtain rod in the dress made for Carol Burnett out of the window curtains in her series spoof of "Gone With The Wind". The collar is irrelevant...the band is there as stabilizer and to prevent sagging.

(Now I know myself and audience to be true!)

One lead I have on the second idea is a pattern, I think located in the 2002 Men's Vogue. Perhaps someone knows of what I speak

Joe-in Wyoming's picture

Sorry, Mark. I don't know

Sorry, Mark. I don't know enough about sweater construction to help on this. That band of ribbing across the shoulder area sounds intriguing. Looking forward to hearing more about your research. -- Books, knitting, cats, fountain pens...Life is Good.

grandcarriage's picture

I'm particularly fond of

I'm particularly fond of raglan shouldered sweaters. I'm rather broad through the shoulders, back and chest, and raglans seem to offer the most flattering fit. (I'm wearing one right now... bottle green varigated mohair). (There are pictures somewhere in my blog).