ok...i might be a pain in the ass....but again so is this brioche pattern

PaganCub's picture

i found a pattern i wanna use, but not the same color yarns. anyways. i'm getting screwed up somewhere. i always end up with one less stitch somehow. i've tried it 3 times and still screw up somewhere. So, i'm posting her abbreviations and the pattern, maybe ya'll can help me

i think i'm getting confused as to what she means by her yo's....lay yarn over top of right needle.
here's a comment from another questioner from her page:
"...You describe the following:

yo before a knit stitch - lay the yarn over the top of your right needle. Make the stitch from this position

yo before a purl stitch - lay the yarn over the top of your right needle and bring it between your needles to the front. Make the next stitch from this position.

I tried out the pattern and had a tough day. Are these standard YO's? How is this different than bringing the yarn btn the needles to switch position for knitting or purling? I'm not sure how you simply 'lay the yarn over the top of the needle' or where it goes.

I also can't figure out which direction you're winding for these funky YO's; is it clockwise for K, counterclockwise for P?..."

Abbreviations:

k1- knit one
yf - bring the yarn forward between your needles as IF you were going to purl
sl 1 - sip one as if to purl
yo before a knit stitch - lay the yarn over the top of your right needle. Make the stitch from this position
yo before a purl stitch - lay the yarn over the top of your right needle and bring it between your needles to the front. Make the next stitch from this position
k2tog - knit two together
p2tog - purl two together

Important tip: You always change yarn EVERY ROW

Pattern:

Using Silk Garden/Yarn #1 - LOOSELY cast on 15 stitches
DO NOT TURN WORK - Push the work to the right tip of your needle.
Using Mandalay/Yarn #2 - k1 *yf, sl 1, yo, k1*
TURN WORK

Row 1 Silk Garden/Yarn #1 - k1, p2tog *sl 1, yo p2tog* until 1 stitch remains, end k1
DO NOT TURN WORK - Push the work to the right tip of your needle
Row 2 Mandalay/Yarn #2 - k1 *yf, sl, yo k2tog* until 2 stitches remain, yf, sl 1, yo, k1
TURN WORK

Row 3 Silk Garden/Yarn #1 - k1, k2tog *yf, sl, yo k2tog* until 1 stitch remains, end k1
DO NOT TURN WORK - Push the work to the right tip of your needle
Row 4 Mandalay/Yarn #2 - k1 *yf, sl, yo p2tog* until 2 stitches remain, sl 1, yo, k1

Repeat rows 1-4 until desired length, ending with row 4
Using Silk Garden/Yarn #1 bind off as follows:
k1, *k1, pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd, k2tog, pass the 1st stitch over the 2nd.*

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P.S. I LEFT THE ORIGINAL YARN CHOICES SO AS TO NOT SCREW UP THE PATTERN

Comments

PaganCub's picture

Hey guys. i've tried and

Hey guys. i've tried and tried and tried....3 times today, and countless times yesterday, to figure it out, and i just can't. maybe i'm a bit retarded. I'm gonna bring it up to my knit guru (annie, @ acmoore, deptford, nj) and see if she can maybe show me what i'm doing wrong. all you guys' advice was great.

so MUCH!!!

drmel94's picture

Actually, the YO in a

Actually, the YO in a brioche stitch is a little bit different from a standard YO in that it is not an increase and is not independent of other stitches. The brioche YO actually lies on top of the slipped stitch and will end up being worked together with the slipped stitch on the next row. This is what gives brioche its particularly dense texture. Aside from that difference, it is the same as any other YO, but it is important to bring the yarn to the front *before* you slip the stitch, so that the YO will lie properly right on top of the slipped stitch.

Crafty Andy's picture

Visit Crafty Andy's Blog I

Visit Crafty Andy's Blog
I can see what you say with that kind of explanation, thanks for explaining as It made it clear to me.

Crafty Andy's picture

Visit Crafty Andy's Blog I

Visit Crafty Andy's Blog

I completely agree with Mario

MMario's picture

lessee - 15 cast-on stitches

lessee - 15 cast-on stitches become 22 stitches in the setup row.

row one uses 3 + 6 repeats of three stitches(18) +1 = 21+1 = 22. It results in 21 stitches.

Row 2 uses 1 + (6 x3) +2 stitches = 21. that's good, because that is what you ended up with on row one. It produces 22 stitches.

Rows 3 uses 3 + (3 x6) +1 stitches = 22 stitches, and produces 21

Row 4 uses 21 and produces 22.

Everything seems pretty kosher to me.

MMario - ambiguity is cultivated, it doesn't happen in a vacuum!

MMario's picture

I think many people confuse

I think many people confuse new knitters when they distinguish between YO's before a knit stitch and before a purl stitch, etc.

All YO's are essentially identical.

Assuming you are in "standard" knitting position, the yarn comes between the needles and then goes back OVER the right needle to the standard position. If you then need to do a purl stitch, bring the yarn forward (again) between the needles as you you would normaly for purling.

If you already have the yarn foward, (because you just complete a purl) then take the yarn over the right needle back to standard position. again, if the next stich after the yo is a purl, then you bring the yarn forward as normal.

So the yarn gets wrapped the same way, it follows the same path, whether the stitch before or the stitch after is a purl or a knit.
MMario - ambiguity is cultivated, it doesn't happen in a vacuum!