lace

ronhuber's picture

I just returned to my home in Mexico and brought along 1200 yeards of laceweight yarn. Do you have a favourite pattern on the internet or suggestions. I would really appreciate your help. Thanks guys.

Kerry's picture

Hi Ron, I'm knitting a free

Hi Ron,
I'm knitting a free KnitPicks pattern, Candle Flame Shawl, in laceweight Australian wool. You can download it at www.knitpicks.com/Projects/itemid_50465220/projects_display

MMario's picture

Here's another one I like -

Here's another one I like - especially with quite a large needle w/ respect to the yarn - I use anywheres from a 5mm to a 6.5 mm with laceweight and this pattern.

multiples of 4 +3

knit several rows as a border.

Pattern row: k1. *(k2, O, k2tog) until two stitches left; k2

Every row is the same. End with the same number of knit rows your started with.

MMario - I don't live in the 21st Century - but I sometimes play a character who does.

Hey, Ron! Here's two that I

Hey, Ron!

Here's two that I really enjoy. Both of them are one line patterns with purl or knit rows in between the pattern rows.

Vine Lace

This one will knock you out. It's only 9 stitches to the pattern with four extra stitches divided at the beginning and end of the pattern row. Easily memorizable, fun to do, mindless, and the result looks like you studied lace in some convent in Portulgal!

9 sts. + 4 *k2tog tbl = Knit 2 together through the back loop - this replaces (VERY WELL, thank you,) SSK.

R1: purl and all odd rows purl.
R2: K2 *yo, k2, k2tog tbl, k2tog, k2, yo, k1* Rep from *. End k2
R4: K3 *yo, k2, k2tog tbl, k2tog, k2, yo, k1* Rep from *. End k1

Now look at rows 2 and 4. You'll see that they are identical. Your four extra stitches are divided up with only a 1 st. difference. Row 2 starts off with 2 sts., then the pattern. It ends with remaining 2 sts. Row 4, increases those first 2 sts. in Row 2 by 1 thus offsetting the same pattern row by 1 st. Since that row began with 3 of the extra sts., you naturally have to end with 1 sts. Simplicity itself! This is a very beautiful lace where you get a lot of bang for very little effort. HINT: I always have a garter border around my lace to prevent curl. So you might consider knitting an inch at the beginning and end and having at least a half inch or an inch side border knitted on while you knit the body.

Just knit your bottom up, then knit in however many sts. it takes to get to a half inch or so, place a marker, and begin your body. When you get to the end of the pattern row, you'll place a marker and knit the remaining sts. So:

Calculate how many repeats of the 9 sts. you'll need for the body; Say, 8 repeats. So, 9 X 8 = 72 sts. + the 4 extra sts. = 76 + let's say 5 sts. on each side for the border, so that brings us up to 86 sts. total for your shawl.

(NOTE: You can't use markers in between your patterns as you would normally because the pattern is offset by one stitch every other row. Using markers in this case WILL drive you crazy, . . . as it did me when I first attempted to do it a hundred years ago.)

If you're new to lace, then you'll need to swatch to figure out gauge. Remember that you'll block or "dress" your shawl when done by wetting it and stretching it unmercifully by pinning it down on your carpet and letting it dry. So, figure out how wide and how long you want it and do a sample to figure out what size needle to use and how many STRETCHED repeats of the pattern it will take to get you to that size.

Most shawls s/b around 72 - 80 inches long X 30 - 36 inches wide BLOCKED. I know this sounds difficult but it's not. After a while you won't need to swatch (tell NOONE that I said that!) 'cause experience will have taught you to have a feel for what to expect.

Old Shale (Feather & Fan)

This is a very old pattern and one of the mainstays of the Shetland lace knitting school. Super easy and very flashy! Only one pattern row, too!

R1: Knit
R2: Purl
R3: *(K2tog tbl) 3 times, (yo, K1) 6 times, (K2 tog) 3 times, rep from *
R4: Knit

Most F&F patterns have K2 tog instead of my K2 tog tbl as the first decrease. Why do I do it? Well, because if you look at the stitch when completed you'll see that it causes the lean of the stitch to look like \. A k2tog causes the lean of the stitch to look like /. So, I'm balancing the bias of the cloth with opposite decreases and the look comes out to: /\ They lean in towards eachother making a nice frame for all those yo holes that are between them. I just think it's more professional looking and from a structural standpoint, it's necessary.

So, there ya go. Again, I'd do a border of garter with either of these patterns. You'll have a happier piece of cloth.

Alles beste,
~Mike in Tampa (who hopes this helps!)

   आदि लक्ष्मी 

~Der Gefährliche Schal-Stricker

Yahoo Id: stickywarp2001

TomH's picture

How is a k2tog tbl different

How is a k2tog tbl different from a k2tog? Do you insert the right needle purl-wise behind the left needle into two stitches and "knit" two stitches at the same time?

That's it! Put right needle

That's it! Put right needle into the back of the next 2 sts. on the left needle and knit them off together at once.

One can also purl 2tog tbl.

   आदि लक्ष्मी 

~Der Gefährliche Schal-Stricker

Yahoo Id: stickywarp2001

K2tog tbl will cause a

K2tog tbl will cause a left-leaning twist to the stitch. K2tog knits two stitches together with a right-leaning twist. They are both decreases but in lace you use these various stitches to create the 'run' of the cloth. In the case of Vine Lace, you are causing the stitches to 'run' up to a central join on the 'trellis', just as a vine would travel up a central pole.

Experiment! Cast on 12 stitches and knit a few, then k2tog tbl, followed by a k2tog. Hold up your work and look at them. You'll see the two stitches look like this: /\ with the right st. being the k2tog tbl, and the left st. being the k2tog.

HTH!
~Mike

   आदि लक्ष्मी 

~Der Gefährliche Schal-Stricker

Yahoo Id: stickywarp2001