check out the various exhibits on this site..
I've just started a pair of socks using the Universal Sock Pattern. This is just my second pair of socks, the first being done in sport-weight wool and a bit loose all over. I want to make sure I've cast on a good number of stitches before I get too far into it. My stockinette gauge is 7.5 st per inch (though the leg will be worked mostly in K3 P1 rib). So, per the pattern I've cast on 60 stitches. To my inexperienced eye, after having done the cuff and a bit of the leg, this doesn't seem like enough stitches.
When creating socks, gloves or anything requiring that you make two or more identical pieces do you:
(a) count rounds as you knit using a stitch counter or tick marks on paper?
(b) work until the size is approximately right, then count how many rounds you've done?
(c) use a measuring tape and not worry that you may be off by a round or two?
(d) hold the finished piece next to the one you're working on, again not worrying about having exactly the same number of rounds?
(e) some other method?
My sense of perfectionism demands (a) or (b), but I wonder if maybe I should just relax a little and go for substantially similar rather than identical. What's your approach?
I've fallen in love with Rowan Magpie. Unfortunately, Rowan discontinued it in 2004. I'm trying to find a good replacement. I've already spent WAY too much buying up as much as I could find on Ebay.
Does anyone have suggestions about how to find an appropriate substitute? I could go to my LYS and snoop around but then I'm limited to what they carry. I've tried looking for other yarns on-line with the same stitches per inch but have found that it's quite a bit more complicated than that.
I've even tried some generic internet searches to no avail.
Thanks for your help guys!
Which designer does it for you?
I know that The Treasure of magical knitting explains Moebius cast-on (mbo) but I was wondering if anyone knows any other places on the web that explain it as well?
Lets talk fibers and projects! Answer us this one....Do you prefer to work with firbers that are chunky and bulky, thus creating a "faster to complete" project, or do you like thinner more fine fiber that creates a "longer to complete" project? I know we all ,kind of, like both....but which do you find yourself buying more of? I find I choose thinner fibers mainly because of the finished look....it seems so much more elegant too me.....now that being said....I can't imagine working with lace or anything....I would pull my hair out (if I had any)!!!! Let us know.....and on a personal note....Thank you, too the lurkers who stepped up and said "Hi" after our #13 question.
The swap/trade forum seems pretty underused, so I figured I'd give it a bump.
I'm looking for up to ten skeins of Naturally Tussock 10 ply in color #165. It's a navy blue with the plyester wrap thread. I bought five at one of my LYS on a 50% clearance sale, and I'm going to need more of it, I just can't find it in any of the other stores in my area, and the few places I've found online that have than specific color in stock are charging way more than I want to pay unless I absolutely have to. Same goes for having one of the stores order it for me. But I figured if anyone finds this (in that color) at their LYS, especially if it's at a clearance price (I paid $3.50 a skein!), please let me know and I can send you money (Paypal, check. MO, whatever) to cover the cost of the yarn and some postage.
Well I am just starting on knitting a london beanie from a pattern I found online. I was all excited with the needlemaster circ set I got until i realized if I knit on the circs I need to switch to dpns to finish the hat off...my question since ive never used circs, just learning now, and def not used dpns, is there a way to avoid the dpns? or no. and if not,can someone point me to a good guide for how to knit with dpns.?
I am looking for information about what MWK members do when finishing a knitted garment Do people block with pins and steam or only steam the loose pieces? Which garments would be blocked/steamed and which would not? How does one make the determination? Do people block to straighten the pieces so they match or to plump-up the stitches to even out the surface of the fabric and even-out the stitches? The literature gives differing opinions on the need for blocking so I'm curious to know the experiences and opinions of others in our little knitting communit