On February 17 and 18 at the Mall of America in Minneapolis, MN there will be a monstrous knitting and crochet extravaganza. Lessons, Fashion shows, doggie sweaters, yarn "Doctors" and Vicki Howell from Knitty Gritty and Lily Chin--the worlds fastest crocheter. See the MOA website for more.
Well, I finally just broke down and bought the most expensive bag I could find. :-)
I got that bag in the brown. Should be here in two weeks (ordered it from the LYS). I will let you all know how I like it when it arrives.
Also, I finished up my 3 session knitting class at my LYS. The last lesson we learned magic loop knitting:
I like the idea of not having to buy all different sizes of circular needles (especially after I bought that bag above!). However, I started my first real project using it (on 40" circulars) and am having trouble. I think I got one half of the knitting twisted and I don't know if there is a way to fix that outside of just ripping it all out. I also have a problem with how stiff the wire is between the needles, it really seems to bend and twist my work, and I don't need any help there. Any experienced magic-loop knitters here that might have a suggestion?
BTW, here is the hat I am doing, it's Ann Norling's Head Huggers:
I'm having trouble with my first sweater... here it is:
and here is where i'm stuck... or just confused:
Right Placket and Collar: With smaller needles, cast on 14 sts.
Row 1 (RS): Sl 1, (p1, k1) 6 times, p1.
Row 2: * K1, p1, rep from * across. Rep these 2 rows until piece measures 4” from beg, end on WS. Mark end of last row for beg of collar.
Inc Row (RS): Work to last st, M1p, k1 – 15 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge EVERY row 15 times more, working incs into ribbing – 30 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge every RS row 13 times – 43 sts. Inc 1 st 1 st in from same edge every other RS row 5 times – 48 sts. Work even in ribbing as established until collar, when slightly stretched, measures 9(9 1/2-10-10 1/2-11)” above marker, end on WS. Mark beg and end of last row. Work even for 4 rows.
Note: Short rows are worked to give shaping to the collar. When working these rows you will work part way across a row, turn, sl 1, then work back to the beginning.
Short Rows: Row 1 (RS): Work 42 sts in ribbing, turn, sl 1, then work to end. Work 4 rows even.
Row 2 (RS): Work 38 sts in ribbing, turn, sl 1, then work to end. Work 4 rows even. Continue in this manner to alternate short rows and even rows, working 4 less sts each short row until short side of collar measures 5 1/2” above markers, end on WS. Sl 48 sts onto holder. Mark placement of 2 buttons on placket, one 1” up from cast-on edge and the other just below beg of collar.
Anyone seen or talked to Chris lately? I've sent him a few IM's, no reply. I haven't seen him online in about a week. Chris, if you read this, give me a holler! Someone in Dallas go check on him!
Robert in OKC
I hate to count! So, having finished this scarf where there's plenty of counting to do on the middle diamonds have given me a great sense of accomplishment. This is not a scarf to do when you can be easily distracted. The pattern is:
Diamond Modular Scarf
Designed by: Iris Schreier
This one is knit using Plymouth yarns 'Boku' on size 11US needles.
Well, I stuck with it and actually caston, knitted and finished the second sock. I did switch to addi turbos rather than trying to knit the second one on addi naturals. Turning the heel is about the time the sigh of relief came. The next pair I've started is going from the toe up. I haven't quite gotten the hang of the two socks on two circs yet. So, I started them one at a time.. I think I will transfer them to a Magic Loop, once I get past the heel. I'll call this the 'Multi-method'
Cheers! (I have to say that, I'm in Australia this week)
I've started "Helga" the second in a four part series of shawls I'm designing with Harry Potter/Hogwarts as inspiration. The first shawl "Godric" and what I've written up on "Helga" are over here
This one is simple, Faroese in style, and mainly designed to be nearly mindless knitting to give me a change from other knitting I am doing. Just enough design in it to keep it from being totally boring. I'm looking forward to the titillating anticipation as the rows go from almost 400 stitches down to 23 stitches.
By that time I may have figured out how to finish the neck band....
So, I just bought this delicious baby camel yarn. I really would like to make a pair of mittens out of it but I'm having trouble finding a pattern ... I would say that it's about a sport/DK weight ... Does anyone have any suggestions?
I continental knit. Its okay for big stuff and for felting etc, but I have always had trouble with my tension when doing little stuff. My recent ventures on doing socks have not been pretty. I am a very very loose knitter and they just weren't turning out well at all. I almost always drop a few needle sizes anyway, but you can't get much smaller and a 0 or a 1. Well, anyway, I always wrapped my yarn around my pinkie finger of my left hand. I found that I tended to hold my pinkie out in space a bit, kinda like when you hold a tea cup, so I wan't keeping the yarn tight enough. I began wrapping my yarn around my ring finger and its a million times better. My current sock actually is tight and looks like a sock! If any of you other continental knitters have tension problems, give that a try!
I have been working a pattern from Michael del Vecchio's "Knitting With Balls" and have come up against a roadblock. The pattern is for Hiking Boot Socks, found on pages 66-69. I have gotten to the heel turn, yes I know that it is the most difficult part of a sock, but the stitch instructions do not add up. The stitches that are to be knit together do not fall on the gaps, the marker is not in the proper place to be slipped when told to do so... I brought the instructions in to my local
yarn/knitting store but we were still unable to perform the stitches called for in the pattern.
This is what it says to do...
Row1: K9 sl marker K2tog K1 turn
Row2: P2 sl marker P2tog P1 turn
Row3: K2 sl marker K2tog (knitting one stitch from either side of the gap together)
Row4: P4 sl marker P2tog (purling one stitch from either side of the gap) P1 turn
Repeat rows 3 and 4, continuing to K2tog or P2tog one stitch from either side of the gap and working one more stitch then turning the work, until 1 st remains beyond the gap on either side. Work the final rows as follows:
Row1: Knit to 1 before gap and K2tog turn.
Row2: Purl to 1 before gap and P2tog (8 sts rem)
Like I said, the gaps do not line up. The pattern says knit 2 stitches together one from either side of the gap, but the gap is 1 or 2 stitches away. Or it say to slip P4 and sl marker, but you just slipped the marker 2 stitches earlier before and turned so it's only 2 stitches away. Does anyone have any idea what i might be doing wrong?